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Pump size calculator

A pump is sized by flow and head. This turns your volume and run time into the gallons per minute you actually need, then tells you whether the pipe in the ground can carry it.

Painted spot illustration: a pump and filter on an equipment pad seen from the side

Horsepower is the wrong number

Nobody buys a pump to own horsepower; they buy it to move water through a filter against resistance. Two numbers decide it: the gallons per minute you need, and the feet of head your plumbing puts in the way. A 1.5 HP pump on a long run with a heater and a solar bank can deliver less flow than a 1 HP pump on a short, fat pipe.

Take the flow figure this tool gives you, find it on the manufacturer’s pump curve at the head shown, and read the speed. On a variable-speed pump that is the setting you programme — not the highest one it will do.

The pipe you already have

Suction pipe is a hard ceiling. Water above roughly six feet per second is noisy, cavitates at the impeller and burns head you paid for. Most residential pools were plumbed in 1½ inch, which tops out near 45 gpm no matter what you bolt onto it. If the tool flags your flow as over-piped, the fix is a longer run time at a lower speed, which also happens to be cheaper.

Slower is cheaper than you think

Halving pump speed roughly halves the flow but cuts the power draw far more steeply. Running twice as long at half speed moves the same water for a fraction of the bill — which is why the running-cost figure above is a range and why variable speed pays back.

Before you replace a pump

Check the basket, the lid o-ring and the impeller first. A pump that lost flow overnight has a blockage or an air leak, not a sizing problem — the repair guide walks the symptoms in order.