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Heater size calculator

Undersize a heater and it never catches up; oversize it and you buy capacity you burn money idling. This works the sizing from surface area and the rise you want, then prices the heat-up on both fuels.

Painted spot illustration: a heater cabinet beside a pool at early evening, steam faintly rising

The three inputs that decide it

Heating a pool is one equation repeated: a BTU raises one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. A 512 ft² pool holds around 21,000 pounds of water per foot of average depth, so a fifteen-degree rise is a large number before you have lost a single BTU to the sky. The other two inputs are how fast you want it and how exposed the surface is.

Where the heat actually goes

Loss pathWhat drives itWhat stops it
EvaporationWind and dry airA cover — by far the biggest single lever
Radiation to skyClear cold nightsA cover, again
Conduction to groundShell type and soilLittle you can do after the build
Splash-out and top-upBather loadRefill from a warm line where possible

The exposure setting in the calculator is a multiplier on the first two rows. It is an assumption, stated plainly, not a measurement of your yard.

Sizing to the fuel bill, not the brochure

A gas heater sized for a four-hour heat-up will do it — and burn the fuel to match. A heat pump sized for a twenty-four-hour rise costs a fraction to run and asks you to plan a day ahead. Decide which of those you actually are before you shop.

Prices, and why they are shown

The running cost above uses the US average residential rates published by the EIA and read on 2026-09-04: 17.30 cents per kilowatt-hour for electricity and $24.09 per thousand cubic feet for natural gas, which works out near $2.32 a therm. Your own tariff is the only one that decides the answer — the heater comparison shows how the ranking flips when power is cheap and gas is dear.